I've been working on a new pattern. I'm still working out kinks and it still needs to be test knit, but for now is a teaser photo.
Showing posts with label knitting pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label knitting pattern. Show all posts
Wednesday, January 22, 2014
Saturday, July 21, 2012
9", 10" Love
Materials:
- US 6, 4 mm knitting needles
- tapestry needle
- approximately 80 yards of worsted weight yarn
Gauge:
- 20 stitches x 28 rows makes a 4" stockinette square
Notes:
- I originally designed this pattern to be a baby blanket square but it could also be used as a dishcloth.
- This pattern makes a 9" square that when washed, stretched, and blocked can be a 10" square.
Pattern:
- cast on 49 stitches
- ROWS 1-10: [K1, P1] x 24, K1
- ROWS 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23: [K1, P1] x 3, K36, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROWS 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24 (wrong side): [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 25: [K1, P1] x 3, K18, P1, K17, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 26: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 27: [K1, P1] x 3, K17, P3, K16, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 28: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 29: [K1, P1] x 3, K16, P5, K15, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 30: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 31: [K1, P1] x 3, K15, P7, K14, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 32: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 33: [K1, P1] x 3, K14, P9, K13, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 34: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 35: [K1, P1] x 3, K13, P11, K12, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 36: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 37: [K1, P1] x 3, K12, P13, K11, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 38: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 39: [K1, P1] x 3, K11, P15, K10, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 40: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 41: [K1, P1] x 3, K10, P17, K9, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 42: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROWS 43, 45, 47: [K1, P1] x 3, K9, P19, K8, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROWS 44, 46, 48: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 49: [K1, P1] x 3, K9, P9, K1, P9, K8, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 50: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 51: [K1, P1] x 3, K10, P7, K3, P7, K9, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 52: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROW 53: [K1, P1] x 3, K11, P5, K5, P5, K10, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROWS 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66: [K1, P1] x 3, K1, P35, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROWS 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 67: [K1, P1] x 3, K36, [K1, P1] x 3, K1
- ROWS 68-77: [K1, P1] x 24, K1
Chart:
- click on the image of the chart to make it bigger
- blank = knit, X = purl
- I apologize for the unevenness of the cell borders in the chart.
Link:
Please do not hesitate to comment or email me with any questions, concerns, or errors. I hope you enjoy the pattern!
Friday, July 20, 2012
Fitted Seed Stitch Hat
Materials:
- US 6, 4 mm DPNs or a US 6, 4mm circular needle
- tapestry needle
- approximately 110 yards of worsted weight yarn
Gauge:
- 10 stitches x 14 rows makes a 2" stockinette square
Pattern:
- cast on 80 stitches; if using DPNs, divide among 3 needles
- work in the round in K2, P2 rib for 2"
- for the last stitch in the last round of the K2, P2 rib, purl into the front and back of the last stitch: 81 stitches
- K1, P1 in the round for 5" (7" total when including the 2" of ribbing)
- begin decrease:
- ROW 1: *K2tog, P2tog [K1, P1] x 8; repeat from * 4 times, K1 73 stitches
- ROW 2 & ALL EVEN ROWS: P1, K1 for the entire round
- ROW 3: *K1, [P1, K1] x 4, P2tog, K2tog, P1, [K1, P1] x 2; repeat from * 4 times, K1 65 stitches
- ROW 5: *K2tog, P2tog, [K1, P1] x 6; repeat from * 4 times, K1 57 stitches
- ROW 7: *K1, [P1, K1] x 3, P2tog, K2tog, P1, [K1, P1] x 1; repeat from * 4 times, K1 49 stitches
- ROW 9: *K2tog, P2tog, [K1, P1] x 4; repeat from * 4 times, K1 41 stitches
- ROW 11: *K1, [P1, K1] x 2, P2tog, K2tog, P1; repeat from * 4 times, K1 33 stitches
- ROW 13: *K2tog, P2tog, [K1, P1] x 2; repeat from * 4 times, K1 25 stitches
- ROW 15: *K1, P2tog, K2tog, P1; repeat from * 4 times, K1 17 stitches
- ROW 17: [K2tog, P2tog] x 4, K1 9 stitches
- Cut the yarn and use a tapestry needle to run through remaining stitches. Pull tight and secure. Weave in all ends.
Links:
- Here is the link to the Ravelry page for this pattern.
- Here is the link to the Ravelry page for the free pattern of the cowl that inspired me to design this hat.
Please do not hesitate to comment or email me with any questions, concerns, or errors. I hope you enjoy the pattern!
Wednesday, July 4, 2012
Envelope Kindle Cozy
Materials:
- size US 6, 4 mm DPNs
- two size US 6, 4 mm circular needles
- tapestry needle
- worsted weight yarn, using two strands at once (I used two different colors at once)
- approx 185 yards total for Kindle Touch
- approx 215 yards total for a Kindle with keyboard
Gauge:
- 5 stitches x 5 rows makes a 1" stockinette square
Pattern:
- Using two circular needles, use Judy's Magic Cast On to cast on 50 stitches.
- Knit in the round for 3 rows.
- Divide the stitches onto 4 DPNs.
- Begin checkered pattern:
- Rows 1-5: [K5, P5] x 5
- Rows 6-10: [P5, K5] x 5
- Repeat pattern 4 times for a Kindle Touch, 5 times for a Kindle with a keyboard.
- Row 1 Post Pattern Repeat (PPR): After repeating the pattern the necessary amount of times, cast off the front, 25 stitches. Then knit the rest of the round. This should now leave you with one knitting needle with the back half of the stitches on the needle.
- Row 2 PPR: Flip the work around and purled every stitch to complete a second row to work back the other direction on the back half of the cozy.
- Row 3 PPR: Knit every stitch.
- Row 4 PPR: Flip the work around and purl every stitch. This produces a stockinette stitch that is 4 rows past the cast-off edge on the front half of the cozy.
- Row 5 PPR: Begin the next row, a knit every stitch row, by picking up a stitch: the stitch below the stitch last created. Put this picked up stitch on the right-hand needle, knit the first stitch on the left needle, then slipped the right-most stitch on the right needle over the left stitch on the right needle. (In other words, cast off one stitch.) Once you nearly reached the end of the row (one stitch left on the left needle), picked up the stitch below the last stitch on the left needle and placed it on the left end of the left needle to make it the new last stitch. Knit the last two stitches, then slipped the second to the last stitch over the last stitch, effectively casting off a stitch. This allows you to essentially stitch the sides of the flap together without increasing stitches each row. Here is a video to help explain this.
- Row 6 PPR: Purled the next row, making sure to pick up a stitch on either end and immediately cast off a stitch, as explained in the bullet before this.
- Row 7 PPR: Knit the next row, again picking up and casting off a stitch on either end. At this point, the flap was folded over and matched up with the cast-off edge of the front half of the cozy.
- Rows 8-13 PPR: Continued to alternate knitting and purling rows, picking up and casting off a stitch on either end of the row for a minimum of 6 rows (I did 8 rows) past the cast-off edge of the front half of the cozy by picking up stitches along the mid-line of the cozy. Here is a video to help explain this.
- Row 14 PPR: Cast off all remaining stitches and weave in the tails of yarn.
Links:
- Here is the link to the Ravelry page for this pattern.
- Here is a link to a pattern that will allow you to knit a matching coffee mug cozy.
- Here is the link to the Ravelry page for the coffee mug cozy.
Please do not hesitate to comment or email me with any questions, concerns, or errors. I hope you enjoy the pattern!
Friday, June 22, 2012
Chunky Braid Cuff
Materials:
- size US 10, 6.0 mm DPNs
- cable needle (abbreviated CN in pattern)
- tapestry needle
- approximately 30 yards of super bulky yarn
- 1 button, at least 3/4" diameter
- thread and needle to sew button in place
Size:
- this pattern was designed for a wrist that is 6.5" in circumference
- measurements: 4" x 8.5" (not including loop for button)
Gauge:
- 15 stitches x 18 rows makes a 4" stockinette stitch square
Pattern:
- Cast on 15 stitches
- Rows 1 & 5 (right side): P3, K9, P3
- Rows 2, 4, 6 & 8: K3, P9, K3
- Row 3: P3, slip 3 stitches on CN & hold in front, K3, K3 stitches from CN, K3, P3
- Row 7: P3, K3, slip 3 stitches onto CN & hold in back, K3, K3 stitches from CN, P3
- Repeat rows 1-8 five times or until desired length. (You will want the overall length to be longer than your wrist circumference so that there will be some overlap.)
- Cast off 6 stitches, making sure to continue with the pattern, K5, P3 (9 stitches remaining)
- Cast off 6 stitches, making sure to continue with the pattern, P2 (3 stitches remaining)
- Use remaining 3 stitches to create an I-cord by K3, slide to other end of the DPN, K3, etc. Knit an I-cord that is approximately 3 inches in length for a 3/4" button. Keep in mind that you will need to make the I-cord longer for larger buttons.
- Cast off remaining 3 stitches, leaving a tail approximately 8" in length.
- Wrap I-cord around to the back and sew in place using the end tail so that a loop for the button is created.
- Weave in ends.
- Attach button approximately 2" from starting edge.
- Wash and block.
Friday, May 11, 2012
Simple Love
Simplicity
I recently knit this blanket for one of my college best friends baby girl. I wanted to use a chunky yarn for a couple different reasons. First, there is just something so cozy and comforting about the look of chunky yarn. Second, I wanted a quick knit because it was more important to me to finish the blanket before the baby was born than knit something complicated and intricate that I would start with good intentions but not finish for two years. Even though it's a simple blanket, it was made with a lot of love and it did the trick of expressing my love.Materials
US Size 13 - 9.0 mm knitting needles6 skeins of Spud and Chloe Outer: 4 of Rocket and 2 of Ballerina
Pattern
This was made using a garter stitch: knit every row. I didn’t knit a swatch because I wasn’t knitting to specific measurements. I cast 80 stitches onto my size US 13 circular needles. The cast on edge became the long side of the blanket. This wasn’t my original intention, but I guess having the stripes vertical will have a slimming affect when the baby is asleep. Clearly that should have been my goal. ;) I knit 2 skeins of the dark pink, then 2 of the light pink, then finished with 2 more skeins of the dark pink. After washing and blocking, the blanket measured 30” x 34”.Thursday, May 10, 2012
Envelope Style Kindle Touch Cozy
Purpose
I recently knit a cozy for my Kindle. The pattern I used as a model was Kindle Cables by Kathy Broughton. I modified the pattern because:1 I believe this pattern was written for the original Kindle
2. I wanted a more secure opening and didn't want to use a button so I wouldn't have to worry about the button accidentally scratching or putting pressure on the screen.
Below are the modifications I made as well as additional pictures. This is the first time I've tried to write out knitting instructions so if anything is confusion or could be written more clearly, please do not hesitate to comment or send me an email. Thanks!
Modifications
1. I only repeated the cable pattern 7 times instead of the 10 times the pattern called for.2. I decided I wanted to make the cozy more like a pillow sham so the Kindle would be less likely to slip out. I also decided I wanted the top part to be in a stockinette stitch to match the bottom. To do this I:
* after repeating the cable pattern for the 7th time, I cast off the first half of the stitches (aka the front half of the cozy) as I repeated row one of the cable pattern.
* after casting off the first half of the stitches, I knit every stitch to finish the round; this now left me with one knitting needle with the back half of the stitches on the needle
* I flipped the work around and purled every stitch to complete a second row to work back the other direction on the back half of the cozy
* I knit every stitch for the next row.
* I flipped the work around and purled another row to work back the other direction. This produced a stockinette stitch that was 4 rows past the cast-off edge on the front half of the cozy.
*I began the next row, a knit every stitch row, by picking up a stitch: the stitch below the stitch last created. I put this picked up stitch on the right-hand needle, knit the first stitch on the left needle, then slipped the right-most stitch on the right needle over the left stitch on the right needle. (In other words, I cast off one stitch.) Once I nearly reached the end of the row (one stitch left on the left needle), I picked up the stitch below the last stitch on the left needle and placed it on the left end of the left needle to make it the new last stitch. I knit the last two stitches, then slipped the second to the last stitch over the last stitch, effectively casting off a stitch. This allowed me to essentially stitch the sides of the flap together without increasing stitches each row.
* I purled the next row, making sure to pick up a stitch on either end and immediately cast off a stitch, as explained in the bullet before this.
* I knit the next row, again picking up and casting off a stitch on either end. At this point, the flap was folded over and matched up with the cast-off edge of the front half of the cozy.
* I continued to alternate knitting and purling rows, picking up and casting off a stitch on either end of the row for 6 rows past the cast-off edge of the front half of the cozy.
* For the seventh row past the cast-off edge, I cast off all remaining stitches and wove in the tail of the yarn.
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